Historical version 3 of Morgan M, N7 8NS (view current version)
- 020 7609 3560
- 489 Liverpool Road, N7 8NS (streetmap) (osm) (gmap) (bingmap) (streetview)
- morganm.com/home.htm
- closed Mon; 7pm-10pm Tue; noon-2:30pm, 7pm-10pm Wed-Fri; 7pm-10pm Sat; closed Sun
- French Food, Restaurants, Take Kake Here, Tasting Menus, Vegetarian Friendly
- Holloway, Lower Holloway, N7
French restaurant in Islington, offering very good quality food. There is a good selection of meat dishes on the a la carte menu, and unusually they also have a six-course vegetarian tasting menu ("From the Garden") for £39; not sure if they can make it be vegan though. The corresponding meaty tasting menu is £45. You can have wines matched to your menu for an additional £28 (or £24 without the dessert wine).
The space inside is quite open with large tables, though the atmosphere is kept hushed and reverent. The waiters are attentive and happy to provide diners with tap water (which is kept filled at all times). Every course and its accompanying wine is announced, and napkins are obsessively refolded by staff when diners venture to the toilets.
The food itself has an emphasis on light textures -- sorbets, carpaccios, soups and purees dominate. The most substantial course on the vegetarian tasting menu was a stuffed pepper, but even this was filled with a light and creamy goats cheese. Nevertheless, the food is expertly done, impeccably presented and, importantly, very tasty.
Various places on the interweb suggest they're currently (early 2007) chasing a Michelin star, having had a recent refurbishment. Gets busy, and they only have one evening sitting, so booking is recommended.
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