Randomness Guide to London - Differences between Version 49 and Version 19 of Pearl Liang, W2 6EZ

Chinese restaurant in Paddington offering good quality dim sum (including proper soup dumplings). A number of the dim sum dishes have a Japanese influence, for example the wasabi prawn dumplings, or the duck spring rolls which come wrapped in a little circumference of nori.

thelondonpaper suggests that dim sum is available in the evening as well as at lunchtime, while Jan Moir says the full dim sum menu is only available noon-5pm, with a smaller selection available as appetisers in the evening. Unusually for a dim sum place, they offer a nine-piece dim sum taster platter annotated photo for just under £10, making it feasible to eat here alone or in a small group while still getting the chance to taste a variety of things.

The decor not-brilliant photo is very fuchsia and a bit glittery; they've done well to work around the lack of natural light, though. It's worth pointing out that the toilets are to be found out the back, through an unmarked door.

Kake and the London Perlmongers have visited for dim sum a couple of times now; a Friday lunchtime in July 2007 and a Thursday lunchtime in April 2008. We didn't book on either occasion, but this wasn't a problem.

On our first visit, there were only three of us so we all went for the taster platter; it wasn't bad at all, though it was composed entirely of steamed dishes - really, a dim sum meal should include both steamed and fried items, to give contrast. If I'd realised this before we ordered (which I should have, since the contents of the taster platter are listed on the menu), I'd have chosen more complementary side orders. The only thing on the platter I really didn't like was the seaweed-wrapped glutinous rice, which was like some kind of greasy sushi; not good. The steamed dumplings, though - pretty good, obviously freshly prepared, and with a very nice emphasis on vegetables. I think the spinach dumpling was my favourite, but it was a close call. (Our side order of sticky rice was not good - overly greasy and the prawns were rather hard - but this problem had been rectified by the time of our second visit.)

The service was neither notably good nor anything to complain about. We paid £14/head for an ample lunch, including service (which is automatically added to the bill) and limitless tea (which we were charged £1 each for, unlike Dos Hermanos, who got it for free).

On our second visit, in April 2008, there were more of us so we ordered various dishes from the main dim sum menu. The sticky rice with mixed meat in lotus leaf was much improved from our previous visit; very good. Spinach dumplings were no longer notably good - bit salty - though still competent enough. Wasabi prawn dumplings were interesting; subtle wasabi flavour but it was there. Duck spring rolls were excellent. Soup dumplings had a fair bit of soup but were a bit big for Kake's taste. Teapot refilling was pretty prompt. We paid £12 a head for ample food, tea all round, no booze. They brought more portions of the desserts than we asked for, but I don't think we were charged for the extras.

Kake's verdict: Definitely one of the better dim sum places in London, at least at this price point. Would be happy to return.

See also:

• Time Out review
• Gastronomy Domine review
• Dos Hermanos review
• The Independent review
• Hardens review
• Jan Moir review
• An American In London review
• World Foodie Guide review (dim sum)
• World Foodie Guide review (dinner)
• Chowhound thread
• Delightful Eggtarts review

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